I made Failor's Mild Coconut Soap on page 52 of her book and was so confused over the amount of dilution water to add so I just double the paste weight, was too thin so I added a bit more. It seemed fine, the right consistency and the Ph came in at around 8 on a paper strip but after it cooled over night I got a really thick skin floating on top, why? I did alright with the recipe until I got to the dilution process and no one anywhere is real clear about how much water to add for a liquid handsoap - I see numbers all over the place. Any help would be appreciated. Is my first batch headed for the trash with that thick skin that floated across the top.?
Liquid Soap Skin
Hello, i am new in making soap
i have a lot of questions
i need your help
1)What natural preservative if we make liquid milk soap or liquid honey soap?
2)what natural antioxcidant if we add superfatt?except tocopherol vitamin e, ektrax rose,grapefruitsedd? and it is really can preservative and become antioxcidant?
3)what creteria oil, which can be used as superfatting agent, ecept sulfonated castrol oil dn grape seed oil?
4)it can be real?if we make soap with pure juice?it not become stinking?
5)what ingredient we can use for thickening agent except borax?and of course natural
6)is there have arange oil, i mean max oil we can used when we make liquid soap. example, coconut not more use than 30 %, and other?
7)what's a different between liquid gel and shower gel?
8)how long natural soap life?hoow to keep them?
Thank u very muach...
i really need your help
Yes, you can dilute some more. Heat the solution up, then mix in the gloppy skin. You won't be able to get it to dissolve right away - just cover the container & leave it (overnight is good) & the gloppy part should dissolve ok.
Hi Ellie
I don't have my copy of Failor's book handy at the moment, so I can't check your amounts, etc.
Most likely, the 'skin' you are getting on the top of your finished, cooled soap is due to too little dilution water. Soap is less soluble in cool solution than it is in hot solution, so the 'skin' may just be soap that precipitated out as it cooled.
Is the liquid soap clear or cloudy? Is the 'skin' translucent? if heated, does the 'skin' dissolve back into the soap to form a clear solution? If it does, heating & adding more water or a bit of ethyl alcohol will clear it up.
What did you use as a neutralizer to adjust the finished soap's pH? If the soap solution is cloudy and the 'skin' is opaque, you may have reduced the pH too far. 9.2 to 9.5 is a reasonable pH range for liquid soap. If yours actually (accurately) tested at 8.0, you may have pushed the soap to dissociate back to fatty acids, which would cause cloudiness. This is quite likely if one uses citric acid (very touchy) to neutralize a small batch and may also happen if one uses boric acid as neutralizer. It is impossible, though, if one uses borax as neutralizer as its buffering action limits the pH to no lower than 9.2, just right for liquid soaps. The cure for cloudy soap due to dissociated fatty acids would be to add a bit of dilute potassium hydroxide solution (very little), then heat & stir & let cool & retest pH.
What might you have used to thicken your finished soap solution? Note that it is impossible to get a thickened finished soap by simply limiting the dilution water. Instead of getting thickened, cooled soap, you get a floating soap 'skin'. Liquid soap solutions are inherently water-thin and potassium soap 'clings' to itself so strongly that there is nothing between cooled, watery soap solution and having some precipitate out as floating soap paste.
As Failor explains, borax can be used as a thickener if the liquid soap formula contains a significant proportion of 'harder' oils. It will not, however, thicken liquid soaps that are high on coconut or castor oils and low on harder oils. One can also enhance thickening of liquid soaps by adding salt and boiling it. This will cause some of the potassium soap to become sodium soap, which is less soluble. All soaps are less soluble in salt solutions, so this may help thickening some, too. Adding a small amount of salt will also make the soap solution more ionic in nature, which can help borax work with the harder oils to thicken.
I've also experimented with using natural gums like xanthan and caragennan to thicken soaps, but this requires specially pure, non-clouding gums & a lot of knowledge of how they work & how to use them. (Specific amounts of potassium chloride for ionization and gums in specific ratios to each other; then heated to a specific temp & allowed to cool). Thickening with a combination of ethyl alcohol, glycerin (think hand sanitizers) and borax is also something I've researched and experimented with, but again, it requires specific ratios, heating to specified temp & cooling. I mention these processes to show that working with liquid soaps can become quite an obsession over time if one has the "chem geek" gene....
Thickening the finished product is the 'Holy Grail' of liquid soapmaking and you'll get lots of differing advice. Get as much advice/info as you want and then go forth and experiment to find a method that suits you and the liquid soap recipes you choose to make. When you find something that you like, write it down!
When you feel fairly comfortable with the theory and practice of working with liquid soaps, you might want to try using our Summer Bee Meadow Advanced Soap Calculator. It can handle mixed potassium & sodium hydroxide soaps (another way to thicken liquid soaps), an optional alcohol broth method and presents a structured, measured methodology to make liquid soaps, measuring weights as you go. Weighing stuff may seem off-putting, but following our method with our advanced calculator will allow you to have consistent results, with needed amounts of borax neutralizer computed and computed amounts of dilution water to reach specified final soap concentrations.
The advanced calculator is just that and requires a fair amount of knowledge and comfort with soapmaking to tackle it, but it can be a very helpful tool in making liquid soaps (and you won't find anything like it elsewhere).
Let us know how your soapmaking progresses!
In addition to my above comment, Failor's book said if you follow her recipe you should get 6 lbs of paste, well I weighed my paste when done and I only got 4.13 lbs. I have no idea what I did wrong, are you supposed to weigh the paste or assume it would be 6 lbs like her book says. I did the test and it came out clear so that was the easy part.


I did use borax and only have the Ph strips to test and its tough to judge exactly by the color, I ordered your Phenl.... to make it easier.
The soap is clear amber and looks good except for the skin. This is my first batch ever done so I only made 2 lb of the paste and put the rest in the frig as a paste still. It all looked good on Friday, then on Saturday after sitting overnight the skin developed and when I stirred it the skin all clumped to the spoon like the paste. I skimmed it off and more formed. I guess this brings me back to my initial problem, I didn't know just how much water to add for dilution. I believe I added a total of 50 oz of dilution water to the 2 lbs of paste and maybe it wasn't enough.
I have the Soapmaker calculator for liquid soap and when I plug in published recipes, all the lye and water numbers are different than the published recipes so I just went by Failor's recipe for Mild Coconut Soap - but she doesn't mention how much dilution water. According to her chart, the way I read it, 2 lbs of paste requires 32 oz of water. When I went back after the fact, I realized I misread that and it was 32 oz per POUND, so I was 14 oz short.
After you have already diluted the soap, can you go back the next day and thin it down again or is it too late?
I am going to give your calculator a try.